If your Metro is installed correctly, your fuel is dry and you operate your fire correctly, you will find it to be a pleasure to use. Metro’s many years of experience within the wood heating industry has shown that dissatisfaction is mainly due to:
• unseasoned fuel
• faulty installation
• operational error
• or a combination of the above 3 points.
The following may be of assistance if you are experiencing any of these problems.
Smoke enters the rooms when the Metro's door is ajar
(Possible reasons and solutions)
Check flue pipe joins:
If the flue pipe joins are not sealed correctly, the flue pipe will not draw as well as it should. The flue pipe join connecting into the flue spigot on top of the Metro is most critical, if this is not sealed correctly, smoke will enter the room when the door is ajar. To check this join is sealed correctly, run a match or lighter flame around the join. If the flame is sucked into the spigot then it is not sealed correctly. This check needs to be done when the fire is not going. Ensure you check the rear of the flue pipe/spigot join, as due to the seam in the flue pipe, this is the most common area for not being sealed correctly.
Ensure the fuel you are using is correctly seasoned:
If you are burning unseasoned fuel (wet), the fire will cause nothing but problems. The Metro won’t deliver much heat, it will be lazy, smoke will enter the room when the door is ajar, and the door glass will run black.
Flue pipe length is too short:
Add more flue pipe as the longer the flue system, the better the draw of the flue pipe. Please note, if you did not purchase the Metro ECO Flue System, you will not have the ECO Cowl which increases draw. We highly recommend the Metro ECO Cowl is fitted as this will increase the draw. if you already have an ECO Cowl and smoke is still entering the room, please add another 600mm length of flue pipe.
If you have checked all of the above and the fire is still smoking into the room, it’s possible there may be a down draft issue. Down draft can be caused by many variables, and it is purely trial and error to ascertain the cause. Solutions may be:
• 'H' Cowl, designed purely for downdraft issues, but if you have an ECO Cowl fitted as standard, you will also need to add another 600mm of flue pipe to compensate as the H Cowl is shorter in length.
• Directional Cowl, designed for high wind areas
Air control setting:
Ensure the air control setting is on high before opening the door to reload, as this increases the draw up the flue pipe.
If your Metro did not smoke, but its starting too and is getting worse:
The flue pipe is in need of a clean. It is recommended that the flue pipe be cleaned every season, however if you are burning the fire on low a lot, or are using unseasoned fuel, flue pipe cleans will be required more frequently.
Modern day wood fires need to be operated hard and fast, more so than low and lazy to ensure the firebox and flue pipe runs hot and efficiently. If the fire and flue pipe is up to temperature it will perform extremely well, the smoke will draw up the flue pipe with ease, and the fire will produce good amounts of heat. if the fire is operated on low a lot of the time, the door glass will run black, the flue pipe will tend to block up more frequently and the fire will end up smoking into the room when reloading. It’s better to have a small fire running hard and fast, rather than a big fire running low and lazy.
Other issues you may experience
I can smell smoke in the room after a low burn cycle:
The smell is creosote that will be seeping through the flue pipe join or out of the flue spigot onto an external surface, thus creating the smell in your room. The cause will be either unseasoned fuel or incorrect operation on low burn cycles. Creosote is very corrosive and excessive buildups will result in the flue pipe and potentially the flue spigot and upper burn chamber failing. Failure of flue pipe or firebox due to creosote build up is not covered under warranty as creosote build up is only possible from either unseasoned fuel or incorrect operation.
The Metro is noisy as it heats up and cools down:
There will always be some expansion and contraction noise as the Metro heats and cools. This can usually be reduced by loosening three nuts at the rear of the appliance. To remedy, locate the 25mm deep cavity at the rear of your Metro between the ‘rear panel’ and the ‘inner rear heat shield’. You will see a 6mm nut and two 6mm bolt heads in this cavity. Using a 10mm ring or open ended spanner, loosen all three so they are finger tight only.
On all non-DV model Metro’s the air channel that allows the combustion air to enter the fire is fitted to the top underneath of the door opening. It is fitted with two M6 bolts. Slightly loosen both of these bolts. Note: This does not apply to the ECO DV models.
The Metro won’t turn down as much as it did
The door itself may need readjusting, the hinge and latch is slotted and allows for movement. Loosening the hinge and moving it back a few mm will make the door seal tighter and stop air leaking into the fire. The door and glass seals may be in need of replacing, which is generally required every 3-4 years.